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Silent movies may have been a big hit in the 1890s, but these days it’s not much fun watching a movie without audible dialogue. A sleek flat screen TV may look great, but it usually needs a high-end sound system to get the sound it deserves. If you can’t hear anything from the sound bar, there are a few troubleshooting steps you can take to get your walkie talkies working again.
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This may seem obvious, but make sure the volume is turned up and the volume bar is set to the correct input.
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If your TV is connected to the HDMI 1 port of the sound bar, make sure your bar is set to HDMI 1. If your TV is connected to an optical cable (also known as TOSLINK (opens a new window)), locate the optical cable. or digital input. If your speaker has a friendly phone app, try using that to change the input, as it may be more reliable by far, or vice versa. (Also, make sure the volume is turned up).
You also need to make sure that the cables are connected to the ports you think they are. If you’re sure your TV is connected to HDMI 1 but it’s actually HDMI 2, you’re causing yourself a lot of unnecessary worry.
Try a different cable, just to rule out this problem – remember that some cables may be required for some game consoles – and it probably wouldn’t hurt to try a different streaming box if you have one to fix this problem. as a variable.
Also make sure you remove the plastic covers from the ends of the cables – it’s especially easy to lose optical cables because the plastic part is so small.
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Finally, open your TV’s menu, look for its sound settings, and make sure the TV is outputting sound from the correct location. This may require you to select the appropriate setting for the cable you are using, such as HDMI Out, Digital Out or something similar, except for the TV speakers.
There are several ways to connect your soundbar to your TV, whether your “source” is a Blu-ray player, cable TV, streaming device, or game console:
If you do not use a separate block as a source (but only use the built-in smart applications of your TV), then this will be one of the first two options, and the block will be removed from the chain.
The first item on this list—sending TV audio to the sound bar via HDMI—requires hardware that supports something called HDMI ARC, or Audio Return Channel. It can be tricky, so if you’re trying to set things up like this, make sure you get it right; Read the manual carefully for each step.
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For example, most TVs only have one ARC-enabled port, and it’s not always the port you’d expect, so you might have to run an HDMI cable from HDMI 3 to the soundbar. instead of HDMI 1. Double check that you continue before, connect to ports called ARC or eARC.
Also, you may need to enable the HDMI-CEC feature on your TV and sound bar. This allows your TV remote to control volume and contrast, and is usually required for ARC to work properly. Sadly, each TV calls it differently: Samsung calls it AnyNet+, while Sony calls it Bravia Sync, and LG calls it SimpLink. Again, check your manual for more information and enable this in the settings.
If you can’t get HDMI ARC to work, try an optical cable instead. I’ve found this to be a bit more reliable in the past, although it may not be able to output all audio formats, which is its own problem.
When watching movies and TV shows, the audio is usually encoded in one of several formats. Most streaming content is encoded in Dolby Digital or Dolby Digital Plus, while Blu-ray can use Dolby or DTS. Some devices can decode the audio itself and send it as raw PCM. Here’s the problem: not all TVs and soundbars can decode all audio formats. For example, some TVs can only decode Dolby Digital, but cannot decode the DTS audio found on some Blu-ray discs.
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Also, your connection can be a bottleneck – optical cables, while easier to install than HDMI ARC, don’t have enough bandwidth to carry 5.1-channel PCM or be able to send Dolby Atmos signals. So if you send a format to your TV or sound bar it can’t decode, you won’t get any sound. You can search your TV in the Rtings database (opens in a new window) to see what audio formats it supports.
You also need to go into your TV’s audio settings and select the correct audio format for it to work properly. Look for an option to change the audio format between bitstream, Dolby Digital, PCM, or other similar options. Try this setting to see if you can find something that works – you may have a similar setting on your sound bar and even on your original device.
For stereo sound, you should have no problem finding the right setting, but if you try to use surround sound this can get really difficult, so you’ll have to experiment with the settings. And depending on what kind of audio you’re sending, HDMI ARC may be your only option because it has more bandwidth for its more reliable audio formats.
Remember those three ways of connecting I mentioned above? If your sound bar has enough ports, you can find everything more reliable if you connect the source box to the sound bar first, and then connect the sound bar to the TV. This eliminates many of the problems associated with HDMI ARC and optical cable limitations, and helps reduce audio latency.
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The downside, of course, is that you’re limited by the number of ports on your sound bar – most people probably only have one HDMI input – and that’s for applications built into your TV or antenna tuner, which would require HDMI, does not work. . ARC or optical. However, if you’re having trouble with a game console or Blu-ray player, try connecting it to your sound bar instead of your TV.
Many TVs and soundbars have built-in features that turn them off after periods of inactivity. Sometimes this happens automatically – check your device’s manual – in which case you may have to wake it up with the remote control if you’ve stopped your display for a long time.
In other cases, it’s a feature you can turn on and off. Check your TV and sound bar settings for a sleep timer setting you may have set incorrectly. You can also turn off any “eco” settings that might affect audio output to save power.
You may hear sound from the main speaker, but not from the other surround speakers or the subwoofer that came with it. Since these plug-ins usually talk wirelessly to the sound bar, they can sometimes be blocked. Try unplugging the subwoofer and/or rear speakers from the wall and plugging them back in. You may also need to press the “coir” button on the subwoofer or rear speakers to reconnect them to the main sound bar. See the manual for detailed instructions on how to do this as this may vary from model to model.
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Finally, if none of the above options work, look for an option in your TV and soundbar settings to update the firmware only if a hidden bug is fixed in the latest release. If all else fails, try a factory reset on one or both devices. If you try to contact the company’s support, they will almost certainly provide this as a troubleshooting step, so you can try it before you ask for that number.
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Whitson Gordon is a writer, gamer and technician who has been building PCs for 10 years. He eats potato chips with chopsticks to avoid getting grease on his mechanical keyboard. RIGEFIELD PARK, NJ – April 9, 2019 – Samsung Electronics Co., Ltd. announced today that a selection of 2019 Q series speakers are available for purchase at Samsung. com and select retailers nationwide this spring. With Dolby Atmos and DTS:X on select models, a sleek design and up to four front-facing speakers and two side-facing speakers, the Q Series soundbars enhance the QLED viewing experience with powerful, immersive sound. Samsung also announced the release of its R series speakers, including the R650, R550 and R450.
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“The Q speakers are designed to enhance sound to truly complement the QLED TV viewing experience,” said Jim Kicek, Vice President of Audio Marketing, Samsung Electronics America. “With Dolby Atmos and DTS:X technologies, moviegoers and audio listeners will be able to see, hear and feel their favorite shows, movies and music like never before. The new Pro game mode will make the game more interesting.
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