Arduino Bluetooth Speaker

Arduino Bluetooth Speaker – A: I’m a DIY hobbyist who likes to make things, especially from wood and concrete (and more recently LEDs). Subscribe to my YouTube channel for more versions: Follow me … More about Modustrial Maker »

This project has been entered into the Wireless Contest and the LED Contest — if you like it, I’d appreciate your vote. thank you!

Arduino Bluetooth Speaker

Arduino Bluetooth Speaker

I designed and built a DIY Bluetooth speaker with an integrated LED matrix. The LED matrix includes several different visualization modes, including a fireplace mode, an abstract “motion art” mode, and some that respond to music via a microphone inside the speaker box. I haven’t seen any other product designed for the home that blends sight and sound in this way.

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The idea for this project came in an unusual way. I want to make something for some friends who are expecting a baby. I wanted a gift that would help her children develop their nerves, and a gift that wasn’t too big. After doing several LED projects and having some woodworking experience, I came up with the idea of ​​integrating an audio reactive LED matrix into a Bluetooth speaker.

The speaker box involved a lot of woodworking. The outside of the box is made of rough curly maple wood, which I milled to 3/4″. The front and back panels are made of plywood. The finish of Curly maple is inspired by the finish of electric guitars, as seen on some of my favorite Paul Reed Smith guitars.

Internally, I’m using a Dayton Audio 2x15v bluetooth amplifier for audio and an Arduino Mega to control the 16×16 LED matrix (VS2812 LED). A small electret microphone inside the speaker box detects the music being played and provides a signal that the Arduino can use to create a reactive LED display.

The design also allows for mechanical adjustment to completely change the appearance of the LED matrix; from pixelated to abstract. I am especially proud of this feature, because I have not seen it anywhere before, and the effect is very cool (shown at the end of the video). The LED matrix is ​​mounted on a baffle behind the white semi-transparent acrylic diffuser, and by turning a screw on the back of the speaker, you can move the LED baffle towards or away from the diffuser. Screw thus allows you to switch from a pixelated display (where individual LEDs are visible) to an abstract display, where LEDs blur together to form moving art, with an almost 3D effect.

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You can make a speaker box out of any type of wood you want. I used 3/4″ solid maple to surround the speaker box, ½” MDF for the front panel, ¼” MDF for the back panel (but I would recommend ½”) instead, and the rest ½” plywood for the inner speaker enclosures.

Below is the cut list for the 22″W x 9″H x 6″D speaker. You can cut from your choice of wood, hardwood, MDF or plywood. (As I understand it, MDF is better than plywood in handling speaker vibration.)

Before we glue the box together, we need to make cutouts on our top panel for three 16mm (~5/8″) buttons. The 24V on/off button will turn everything on and off, the 5V on/off button will turn the 5V circuit on and off (with LED matrix and Arduino) separate from the Bluetooth speaker, and the 5V current button will change the mode. in the LED matrix.

Arduino Bluetooth Speaker

The threads on these 16mm knobs aren’t long enough to span the wood, so we had to drill larger recesses inside the top panel, to attach a nut to the threads on each knob and secure them. Mark the center point for the speaker on the underside of the top panel, with one exactly centered and the other two off center 1.75 inches on both sides. Then use a 1-3/8″ Forstner Bit on the inside of the top plate to drill a hole in the top 1/4″ (for example, set a stop 1/2″ deep on your drill). Use the center point to the left of the Forstner drill bit as a guide for the drill through the center point with a small (for example, 1/8 “) drill bit, which will allow you to line things up when drilling from the opposite side. Now flip it over and use a 5/8” Forstner bit to drill each hole from the top so you have a hole that perfectly fits the 16mm button. This process is shown here:

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First, you will want to use a pencil to mark the center point for each speaker. I marked my center point 3.5″ from the edge of the nearest side and centered it vertically (3.75″ from the top / bottom edge), so the speakers will be inserted 2″ from the edge of the speaker panel. Next, draw a square 6.75″ x 6, 75″ centered vertically and horizontally on the front panel with a pencil. This square is the cutout for the LED matrix.

Next, use a 3-inch hole saw to cut a hole for the speaker, centered on the marked point. Drilling is recommended, but you can probably get away with hand drilling if you’re careful.

Next, use an angle grinder to give the depth of each speaker cutout and LED matrix cutout beveled edge.

Lastly, you will want to paint the front panel of the MDC. For the front and back MDF I used white spray paint and topped it with several coats of clear coat. I also made a version with a black front panel, where I used black spray paint.

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Cut your acrylic piece to 7″x 7″ with a table saw, circular saw, or jigsaw. Peel off only the edges of the protective plastic on both sides of the acrylic and place it on the inside of the cutout on the front panel. Use super glue to attach it to the front panel.

First make ¼” cutouts for the threaded socket and the female DC power connector. Like the button, the thread does not stretch. Use the same procedure described above for the button, to make larger recesses on the inside of the plate again for these two threaded sockets. Except this time, use ¾” Forstner bit to the countersink and drill to 1/8″ outside the panel again, and use a ¼” Forstner bit to drill the outside hole that will fit these two ¼” sockets snugly.

The ¼” connection hole for the threaded bolt comes from the LED bulkhead. This ¼” hole should be drilled dead center in the back plate.

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Arduino Bluetooth Speaker

(optional) ¾” hole for the fan supply. Drill where convenient. I centered this hole about 2″ from the top edge.

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Optional ventilation openings. I drilled two ¾ “holes towards the edges of the back panel, to allow for ventilation (the LEDs and buck converter can get pretty hot).

Before you insert the faceplate into the tilt box, you will want to sand and finish the shell and faceplate. The choice of finish is up to you. Because my top, bottom and side panels were solid maple, I only used Waterlock as a finish.

I also made some more copies of the speakers where I used gray aniline paint and Tru-Oil, for an electric guitar inspired finish. In one of these I used black spray paint for the front and back panels and in the other gray one I used white spray paint.

Before gluing the box, make sure you have done the steps above for button cutouts. Also, before gluing, attach supports around and away from the edges of the top, bottom and side panels, which the front panel will rest on. Cut some strips of wood (MDF or plywood) about ½” high and glue and nail two of them to each top, bottom and side panel. The height of the strips should be ½” or ¾”. I put the front support strips on each panel again ¾” from the front edge so that the ½” front speaker panel will be inset ¼” when resting on the supports. Watch the video here: Make sure you don’t put the brackets in the middle span of the 7″ top and bottom panels, as this will interfere with the movement of your LEDs. bulkhead near the diffuser.

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Please note that in the video and pictures I also made the background support. For this instructable, I improved the design by the size of the speaker enclosures inside also serve as a support for the backplate, so no support pieces are needed in the back.

After attaching the brackets, we will make the outer shell of the speaker box and the top, bottom and side panels. This is just the base of the four-sided joint box. Use wood glue and clamps to assemble. I also recommend putting painter’s tape on the front and sides (so it doesn’t stick to the wood

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